I have been giving some thought to heat, as it is too Cold to think about anything else.
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Dec. 25, 2007
Here is the heater from Home Depot that i am going to use for heat in the S10, it is a 1500 watt, 120 Volt ac unit.
Lets open it up!
Ceramic element removed, I need
to figure out a way to hold it in the heat resistant plastic frame to mount and a mount. Looks like I can use the plastic that came from the heater. I'll see if this can be trimmed to fit.
Looks like this may just work :-), I also will use the high temp. cutoff switch to shut down the heater relay if things over heat.
That is the small thing connected to the 2 wires on top. I sat the new heater on the old core to get an idea of what needs to be made for a new mount the same dimentions as the old heater core to get the new ceramic heater to seal in the heater core mount under the dash.
Dec. 26, 2007
I found an old clipboard and used the masonite board to make a piece the same dimentions as the heater core and mounted the ceramic heater in the center with #6 matchine screws. I removed the element from the heater and traced the outline of where to cut the opening for the element to be open to the air flow from the fan. I used a grinder to radius the edges smooth.
Dec. 27, 2007
I used a file to remove the masonite where the raised plastic alignment things are in the heater phenum. I drilled 4 holes to attach the new ceramic heater and got a nice fit against the plastic heater core support.
Before I replace the phenum cover, I will replace the relatively light wires that were for household AC operation to the ceramic element with longer #12 ga. wires. I will put longer wires on the high temp. cutoff switch and run all of the wires out of the existing heater hose connection holes.
Dec. 29, 2007
I bought 1/4" female high temp connectors and followed the same wiring pattern as the original 120 volt AC heat. I tagged the 12 Gauge wires for identification, high heat, low heat, heater common and the 2 wires for the high temp. shut down switch.
I ran the wires out through the firewall heater core tube holes. I slid plastic tubes over the wires to protect them from the steel edges of the firewall holes and used a little silicone gasket sealer to hold them in place.
I reinstalled the phenum cover with the screws, except for the one that is at the top left corner (!$#@).
Jan. 3, 2008
I removed the heater control head far enough to see what I was going to have to build to use the factory controls to control the ceramic heater.
I have gave some thought to how I want this to work, below is the Heater Wiring Diagram
I located the parts that should make this heater control for electric operation.
1 Pkg., 1N4001 Silicon Diode (Radio Shack #276-1101)
3 each, magnetic reed switches (eBay)
1 Pkg., 1/8" Rare Earth Magnets (Radio Shack #64-1895)
1 each, Green LED (Radio Shack #276-085)
2 each, Red LEDs (Radio Shack #276-084)
1 each, Panel-Mount Fuse Holder (Radio Shack #270-364)
Jan. 14, 2008
I disconnected the heat control cables by pressing this little release tab down on the control arms, I put a Red Dot on the arm that connected to the Red cable holder, just to help me remember the proper location. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to get the wire cable locks off without breaking them. Here is the heater control on the bench.
I drilled the heater control head for 3 small panel mount LED's. The Green LED on the fan speed switch will be on when the heater blower fan setting is on "Medium" speed and the "High" speed positions. REVESED: see Mar. 31, 2007. The S10 heater switch lighting made the Green LED appear to be on when it was not on.
The Red LED's on the temperature control head will indicate when the related magnetic reed switch is closed, Indicating both Low and High heat control settings, see Heater Control Wiring Diagram.
I super glued 2 small rare earth disc magnets to the temperature control arm, I put them as close as I could to the plastic housing, to make sure the magnetic reed switches would connect. Wow! These LIL buggers are STRONG!
I soldered the wires on the reed switches. I bench tested the magnetic switches to see how close I needed the magnets to be to close the switches, about 5/16" or less to close. I used a small amount of super glue to hold the switches in place while I tested the closing of the switches. They tested good closing everytime I slide arm with the magnet behind the switches. All tested good so I securely super glued all of them in place.
I carefully drilled the hole for the panel mount fuse holder, and super glued it in place. Note: all of the LED's had to be glued in place, the mounting panel was too thick to get the supplied nuts on.
Jan. 15, 2008
To prevent voltage backfeeding, I soldered 1 diode on each of the Blower "Medium" and "High" speed terminals.
I connected the wires, and tested the heater control head:
Blower speed control MUST be set to "Medium" speed or "High" Speed, for Green LED, to be ON, to signify that heat system is "READY" to be operational.
"Medium" heat setting, center, Red LED ON, & Power to Low heat control wire.
"High" heat setting, top, Red LED ON, & center "Medium" Red LED ON, & Power to BOTH low & high heat control wires.
Jan. 16, 2008
I installed the heater control head and hooked up the 12 volt system to a 12 volt battery charger to test the heating design. I found that I have voltage feedback going from the heater switch on "Low" speed setting, through the blower speed resistor block and energizing the electric heater control curcuit. I need to isolate the wires going to the heater blower resistor block with diodes on each speeds wire. I will have to come back to finish the other two diode / wire splices, it is 20 degrees out here, Brr.. also, here is the revision to the wiring diagram where the diodes are added.
NOTE: May 26, 2009. The original diodes from Radio shack were too small of current rating for the current of the fan blower and they burned out.
So I relaced all 3 of them on the blower power wires with 6 Amp rectifier diodes, from Radio Shack, #276-1661.
Jan. 19, 2008
I bought a few more parts from Radio Shack to make the high temp. shut down relay.
I finished putting the blocking doides on the heater blower speed resistor block, to stop the voltage feedback. I also finished running the heater control wires from the control head, I used a 3 wire shielded cable, I crumped on a ring terminal and grounded the bare wire up under the dash. I routed the control wires around the heater blower box and drilled a 3/8" hole in the fire wall and ran the control wires out through it.
I found the smallest project box at Radio shack that would hold the 2 power relays. This looks to be the closest location to the heater assembly for mounting. I hammered the ridge on the inner fender down and got a flat surface to mount the box. I wrappd the high dc HV feed wires to the ceramic heated with 3/8" plastic spiral wire wrap, then I drilled a 1/4" hole in the box and put the labled wires into the box. I am waiting for the second relay to come before I mount any thing perminant in the box.
Jan. 26, 2008
I realized that the relay I had from Radio Shack is only a SPST and that I need a DPDT, that means that the relay has 2 sets of contacts and that are both switched at the same time but are not connected to each other.
I went back again to Radio Shack and got the correct 12 volt Dc DPDT relay. I mounted it, after drilling a couple of mounting holes, on the pc board. My goal was to have some uniformity in the wiring terminals as far as the positioning of the Normal Closed, Common, Normal Open and Coil terminals, and labeled them. I used a small wire nut to connect all of the ground leads. I used a 9 volt transistor radio battery to test the Relay and "over Temp. Warning LED" wiring.
Feb. 2, 2008
I finished wiring the over tempature relay and the high and low temp. relays, I had to refer to the heater wiring diagram and labled the wires for future reference.
Then, I hooked up the HV power wires to a GFI outlet and connected the S10 to a battery charger and tested the heating system...the test was successful, I had heat! I am concerned that the medium blower fan setting may be of too low air flow and that the heater may over heat. I may have to disconnect the medium setting for energizing the heating relays.
Mar. 31, 2007
The stock S10 heater switch inst. panel lighting made the Green LED appear to be on because the panel light was lighting through the plastic light tube on the LED. I removed the Green LED and put shrink wrap around the LED tube and drilled the mouning hole to fit the heat shrinked LED Outside Diameter.
May 13, 2008
To protect the contacts in the relays, with the load if the ceramic heater, I needed to build snubbers to put across the contacts in both heating relays.
I bought 2 ea. 1 watt, 100 Ohm Resistors and 2 ea. 1.0 MFD, 250 volt capacitors at Idaho Instrument.
I used clear heat scrink to cover the exposed wires.
May 14, 2008
Added a 1N4004 diode across the coil terminals on both High and Low heat relays, with the diode's white stripe on the 12 volt positive connection.
May 17, 2008
I labeled the wires on the heater control box.
I slid clear heat shrink tubing over the labels, and shrunk it over the labels to protect them.
I wish I had covered all of the labels that I had put on earlier this same way.
Jun 12, 2008
I ran the wire to the heater fuses on the Zilla board, and secured them to the bottom of the board.
I used a 3 prong cord cap to connect the heater to the control board.
I put lables on the cord caps after I snapped the picture.
I used wire nuts to connect the power cord inside the heater relay box.
May 26, 2009
The original diodes from Radio shack were of a too small current rating for the fan blower and they burned out.
So, I relaced all 3 of them on the blower power wires with 6 Amp rectifier diodes, from Radio Shack, #276-1661.
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